Fashion Worlds

featured Designer: Hannah Marshall

Hannah Marshall is an up-and-coming innovative designer from Colchester in the UK. Born in 1982, she was selected to show her designs on Channel 4 in 2002, whilst still a student. She was subsequently awarded a place at the 'Graduate Pioneer Programme' run by NESTA (the National Endowment for Science, Technology & the Arts), an organisation that invests in UK creativity and innovation. Her autumn/winter 2005 collection, 'Altered Beauty' explores both visual and tactile elements of communication through the incorporation of Braille into the fabric of her tailored garments.

Hannah Marshall is an up-and-coming innovative designer from Colchester in the UK. Born in 1982, she was selected to show her designs on Channel 4 in 2002, whilst still a BA (Hons) student in Fashion and Textile Design at the Colchester Institute. She was subsequently awarded a place at the 'Graduate Pioneer Programme' run by NESTA (the National Endowment for Science, Technology & the Arts), an organisation that invests in UK creativity and innovation. Her autumn/winter 2005 collection, 'Altered Beauty' explores both visual and tactile elements of communication through the incorporation of Braille into the fabric of her tailored garments. She has a signature style of clean and simple garments, yet modern and wearable, with fine attention to detail.An established part of the international fashion scene, Antwerp’s reputation today is closely tied to the impact of the so-called ‘Antwerp Six’. This group of talented designers, graduates of the Antwerp Academy from the years 1980 and 1981, brought the world’s attention to the inventive styles and impeccable craftsmanship of Belgium’s fashion industry. Trained by designer Linda Loppa, the original ‘Six’ are Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee (replacing the almost reclusive Martin Margiela after his brief association with the group). Together, they staged fashion shows and events throughout the mid-80s. Their attempts to capture the attention of the international press and buyers famously included their unprecedented success at the 1988 London Fashion Week. It was this surprising event that placed Antwerp firmly on the map of the international fashion scene.

An established part of the international fashion scene, Antwerp’s reputation today is closely tied to the impact of the so-called ‘Antwerp Six’. This group of talented designers, graduates of the Antwerp Academy from the years 1980 and 1981, brought the world’s attention to the inventive styles and impeccable craftsmanship of Belgium’s fashion industry. Trained by designer Linda Loppa, the original ‘Six’ are Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee (replacing the almost reclusive Martin Margiela after his brief association with the group). Together, they staged fashion shows and events throughout the mid-80s. Their attempts to capture the attention of the international press and buyers famously included their unprecedented success at the 1988 London Fashion Week. It was this surprising event that placed Antwerp firmly on the map of the international fashion scene.

Despite their shared background in the fashion department of Antwerp’s Royal Academy, the styles of the six designers are distinctly varied. Whilst Van Noten’s scarves of exotic fabrics, beaded saris and dyed skirts are inspired by the traditional practices of countries such as India, Morocco and Egypt, Van Beirendonck’s bold graphics and daring designs are rooted in a futuristic concept of fashion that is both theatrical and challenging.

It is notable that the ‘Antwerp Six’ have largely chosen to remain in their hometown. Together with the next wave of innovative designers from the city’s Royal Academy, their work is located in Antwerp’s south and city centre rather than in the fashion scenes of Paris and New York. Anne Demeulemeester’s first freestanding boutique is found on the corner of Leopold de Waelplats, opposite the Museum of Fine Arts. It is a stark white shopping space in which mannequins are suspended from the ceiling on steel cables. Linking the city centre and the south, the Nationalestraat houses the his-and-her collections of Dries Van Noten, the designs of Dirk Van Saene, Bernhard Willhelm and Kostas Murkudis, and the avant-garde fashion of Mici de Merode. The up-and-coming designers Stephan Scneider and Anna Heylen are also within walking distance, at Reyndersstraat 53 and Lombardenvest 44 respectively.

The striking reputation of the ‘Antwerp Six’ is pivotal to the attention received each year by the graduation show of the fashion department of the Royal Academy. Held each year in June, the city welcomes a flock of international reporters, magazine editors and photographers expecting to find promising new talent. For many in the fashion world, Antwerp has become a strong rival to Brussels as Belgium’s capital city.

This woman would like to ‘nourish your inner aspect’

Gwyneth Paltrow promoting Two Lovers at the 61st Cannes Film Festival. Photograph: Francois Mori/AP

This issue/episode/whatevs of Lost in Showbiz shall be a solemn meditation on the subject of What Else Can Your Celebrity Do? Because it’s not good enough, is it, for them just to do whatever it is they became famous for. Dance for me, loser, dance!

Celebrities want you to know that they don’t “just” act, they don’t “just” model: there is so much more depth beneath those shallow pools. Those who lack the foreign policy nous of Middle East diplomat Jude Law hire underlings to design clothing ranges because they’ve always been – self-deprecating chuckle – obsessed with fashion. Others go on reality TV shows where they will do such extraordinary things as wear no makeup and cry and be stuck in a room with Sue Perkins for a while. And then some celebrities turn to the internet.

MySpace has, of course, served as a most excellent forum for celebrities to get their all-too-often stifled voices out into the world, with Lindsay Lohan and Lily Allen being probably the most frequently heard, although Leonardo DiCaprio’s page (“I am an actor and an environmental activist”) is occasionally worth checking out, too.

One really needs to go to tomcruise.com in person to see a true messiah complex in action, and also, of course, to read the “message from Tom” (“There are so many more stories to be told” – oh Tom, aren’t there just.)

But a new standard has been set this week by Gwyneth Paltrow and the launch of her website, Goop.com.

To give you a bit of recent Paltrow context, Lost in Showbiz was privileged – nay, blessed – to watch her on Oprah Winfrey last week. Admittedly the descriptions of her daily workouts with a personal trainer were just fascinating but I think the most thrilling moment was when Gwyneth discussed her friendship with Madonna, which Lost in Showbiz always hoped might develop into a kind of Thelma and Louise scenario. Anyway, Madonna “has an amazing dichotomy” (huh, shouldn’t she get a cream for that?) and is “such an intelligent person”. How intelligent, Gwyneth? “She really rearranged my molecules.” Blow me, even those idiots at Cern couldn’t manage that one. Oh, and Madonna’s kids are “just phenomenal”. How so? “Well, they’re just really polite.”

And now, via the medium of the interweb, Gwyneth has, to her extraordinary credit, found a way to be even more annoying. This is not some poxy “here’s my CV” website. No, Gwynnie wants to help you – you dumpy, gross, animal-fat-injesting freaks – be more pure like her. Excited already!

Launching this week, the intriguingly named Goop.com will teach you how to “nourish what is real”. Learn from Gwyneth, is the motto here, and who wouldn’t want to? Why, in her mission statement she assures us, “I love being in spaces that are clean and feel nice.” It’s like sitting at the knee of Thomas Aquinas.

Best of all is the promise that Gwyneth will share “some thoughts from one of my sages”. Gwyneth’s sages! And people say the internet is just full of half-assed crap. Obviously, Lost in Showbiz has already signed up for the newsletter because if there’s any woman who can help this column “nourish the inner aspect”, then you just know it’s going to be a woman who had to be hospitalised this year while it was reported that she was on a five-day fast. Oh, how my inner aspect feels so nourished already.He was born as a hero, with a proverbial silver spoon in his mouth; he lived as a hero and died as a hero, though a tragic one. He was none other than our own Waheed Murad.

Waheed Murad�s style of acting and his picturisation of songs in films were inimitable and were even copied in the Indian film industry. Murad is still remembered as the chocolate hero of the Pakistani silver screen.

Murad was born on October 2, 1938 in Karachi. He did his Masters in English from the Karachi University in 1963 and then took over his father Nisar Murad�s business � a film production house, Film Arts Karachi. Murad�s fan following still exists in huge numbers in Pakistan and India. The chocolate hero saw the zenith of Pakistani cinema.

In the late 70s, he faced a bad patch in film industry that led him to seclusion. He got disheartened with the Lollywood people and on November 23, 1983 news of his death left many eyes brimming with tears His death created such a vacuum in the Pakistani film industry that is not still filled.

Talking about the legendary hero, senior film journalist Yaseen Goreeja said Waheed Murad�s glamour world career and life has striking similarity to American star Elvis Presley. Both Murad and Persley enjoyed early success, the status of being the most mesmerising personalities of their own countries, great fame and then sudden fall and tragic death. Both the shared many commonalities in life, Mr Goreeja told Daily Times.

LISTEN TO SONG: Akele na jana – Arman

Mr Murad acted in 123 feature films and earned 32 awards for his unmatchable performance. His colleague and a super star in his own right, Nadeem told a TV programme recently: �It was only Waheed Murad who deserved to be a super star�. This was a tribute from a great actor to another great actor. Murad is still loved by Pakistanis as the best entertaining artiste even today.

Film critic Tufail Akhtar told Daily Times Waheed Murad was a one such hero whom Indian film stars Rajesh Khana and Jateendra copied but they could not give even a single performance like him. He said the late actor�s style of song picturisation was unique.

Murad started his film career by producing a film named Insan Badalta Hey.

As an actor he started his film career from SM Yousaf�s Aulad. Then came Daman in which he played second hero opposite Neelo with Sabiha and Santosh in the main lead. He appeared as lead hero in a Heera Aur Pathar opposite Zeba. The director, music composer and songwriter of the film were Pervaiz Malik, Suhail Rana and Masroor Anwar respectively. This team led by Murad as hero and producer again created magic in the shape of film Arman which turned out to be first platinum jubilee film in Pakistan. Its song Akeley Naa Jana is still fresh and hummed by many even after almost forty years. The team produced Ehsan which was again a huge box-office hit.

101 facts about Waheed Murad:

Murad performed in many other fine films opposite heroines such as Zeba, Shamim Ara, Rani, Shabnam, Deeba, Babra Sharif, Naghama Aaliya, Sangeeta, Kaveeta Aasia, Rukhsana, Bahar, Neelo and Rozina. Though, he was a Karachi-based artiste and was not that well versed with the Punjabi language however, he gave some memorable performances in Punjabi films such as Mastana Mahi, Ishq Mera Naan, Sayyo Ni Mera Mahi, Akh Lari Badobadi and Jogi opposite film stars Naghama and Aaliya, Mumtaz Aasia and Anjuman.

Mr Murad was a celebrated hero when it came to the picturisation of romantic songs. He was the star of many of the golden oldies of Pakistani cinema and he enlivened the silver screen with his extraordinary talent in acting and song picturisation. Some of the songs that still turn many nostalgic are Tumhain Kaisay Bata Doon, Kuch Log Rooth Kar Bhi, Dil Tumko Dey Diya, Ko Ko Korina, Jhoom Aye Dil Wo Mera Jan-e- Bahar Aye Ga , Beetay Huway Khuch Din Aisay Hain Tanhai Jinhain Duhrati hey, Mujhe Tum Nazar Say Gira To Rahay Ho, Yun Kho Gaiy Teray Pyar Mein Hum and Socha Tha Piyar Na Karan Gain, Khamosh Hein Nazaray, and Aye Abre Karam Aaj Itna baras. Murad�s favourite song was film Do Raha�s Bhooli Hui Hoon Dastan as he told to Khush Bakhat Shujaat in a radio interview a couple of years before his death.

In the 1970s, Pakistani cinema was all the rage. The dressing style, the hair cut and melodious songs used to be liked and followed by people. Mr Murad�s hair cut was very popular among the young and was called the �Waheed Murad cut�. Murad�s Rishta Hey Pyar Ka was the first Pakistani movie which was shot abroad. His first film as director was Ishara for which he also lent his voice as a singer.

Film critic Khalid Ibrahim told Daily Times that in his hey day Mr Murad once went to Sadar area of Karachi in his white car. Realising it was Murad�s car, a group of 30 college girls covered the vehicle with lipstick kisses.

Waheed Murad got married to Salma, daughter of a Karachi-based industrialist on 17 September 1964. His son Adil Murad, who acted in a film, Raja Sahib, opposite actress Sahiba, is a computer engineer and lives in the United States. His daughter Aaliya who is married to a businessman, lives in Karachi with her mother. On Friday (November 20), a Quran Khawani was held for Murad at the Shah Noor Studios. The film people also arranged a condolence meeting for the late actor. �Waheed Lovers Forum� representatives also laid a floral wreath at his grave at the Gulberg graveyard.

Murad was one of the few educated actors in Pakistan. Despite his hectic film schedule he used to read newspapers and literary books. His favourite poet was Keats and favourite singer was Ume Kulsoom of Egypt. In colognes he liked Paco Roban and his favourite writer was Erica Jones.

Waheed Murad in Arman singing Akele Na JanaMurad�s important films included Mamta, Bahu Begum,Saaz Aur Awaz,Eid Mubarak, Kaneez, Honhar, Bhiya, Jaag Utha Insaan, Dewar Bhabi, Insaniyat, Phir Subha Hogi, Maan Baap, Jan-e-Arzoo, Samandar, Dil Mera Dharkan Teri, Jahan Tum Wahan Hum, Ishara, Saalgira, Tum Hi Ho Mehboob Meray, Ladla, Andleeb, Ik Nagina, Maan Beta, Afsana, Baywafa, Naseeb Apna Apna, Phir Chand Niklay Ga, Chand Sooraj, Neend Hamari Khwab Tumharay, Rim Jhim,, Afshan, Anjuman, Khalish, Naag Muni, Hill Station, Daulat Aur Duniya, Bandagi, Zindagi Aik Safar Hey, Mulaqat, Baharo Phool Barsao, Khwab Aur Zindagi, Unhoni, Jaal, Tum Salamat Raho, Phool Meray Gulshan Ka, Mastani Mehbooba, Jab Jab Phool Khilay, Nishani, Pyari, Apnay Huay Paraiy, Izzat, Shabana, Zubaidah, Deedar, Surriya Bhopali, Nazrana, Parkh, Wada, I Love You, Muhbbat Zindagi Hey, Hero and many others. (Courtesy: Daily Times, PK)

Anne Avantie Designing Kebaya

Floral dress can be an alternative style of dress in the summer. Dress with flower motif, in addition to the positive aura exudes a cheerful, this style can also mix-match with various accessories supporting your appearance.

In order to perform coherent matching fitted floral dress, this is the tips for you:

Choose colors according to the dominant flower color

Like a plain dress, wearing a floral dress should also be adjusted with the color of your skin. This is important to note, in order to remain a floral dress and matching fitted with a color of your skin. If you are light-skinned, probably any color does not matter.

When there are clothes that give a lot of inspiration for the “fashion”, social status or identity, it is the kebaya. For us, kebaya closely with everyday. Clothing was worn grandmother and parents, ranging from Mbok herbalist to the mother country.

On an afternoon at the end of April, guests meet the performance kebaya Amy Atmanto in a shopping center in the region’s elite Thamrin, Jakarta. Officials, former officials, and socialite blend into one. Just call Linda Agum Gumelar, Siti Fadilah Supari, Mien Uno, Rima Melati, scheduled to Tati, until Marini Zumarnis and Diah Permata Sari. All wore kebaya kebaya praised each other and they used one another.

Interestingly, not only the nuances of color that filled the room, but also no visible kebaya “uniform”. Red kebaya worn Fadilah Supari, for example, away from formal impression. Cloth he wore was relaxed, like a coil sheath. In her kebaya, Fadilah figure that as long as a health minister was once known to impress even more relaxed straightforward.

Kebaya became a hot issue throughout April. Could be because April is closely associated with Kartini Day, while warning of Kartini is often associated with the kebaya. That month is also usually an opportunity for senior designers and new to re-interpret the kebaya in accordance with the current character of Indonesian women.

Looking back, the journey was very long kebaya. Kebaya was first used in Indonesia around the 16th century. According to the homeowner fabric Bin House, Josephine Komara, or known by Obin, Indonesian people are not familiar with the culture used to wear clothes, but wearing kemben. “My start was known as the Portuguese and Dutch arrived. This shirt is then used to continue to use so that emerges form kemben kebaya, kebaya bef, “said Obin.

Due to cultural buttons unknown in Indonesia, women in the past wearing a pin to unite the two sides of the shirt. “And, Kartini was born a kebaya. Plus beads, safety pins also function be decorative, “said Obin, who had known since childhood kebaya. He claimed to really enjoy wearing kebaya. “Women certainly have a tendency to wear something that makes it more beautiful and comfortable. For that, I choose the kebaya, “he said.

Political symbol
In the journey, kebaya has played a variety of functions, whether political, social, or cultural. Henk Schulte Nordholt, in his book, Outward Appearances, for example, write down how kebaya has become a political symbol of Indonesian women.

During the Japanese occupation period (1942-1945), the Indonesian woman who was then a prisoner of war rather than choose to wear kebaya cloth wearing Western-style resistance. This attitude indicates a political position to distinguish themselves with women prisoners of war from the Netherlands.

Not surprisingly, the post-independence President Sukarno and then transforming the kebaya as the national dress. However, the position of “honor” that disappeared in the New Order era. Kebaya became mandatory uniform Dharma Wanita and women in the civil service environment required to become members of Dharma Wanita. Function “control” imposed by kebaya makes some political literacy of women in those days to be antipathy and linking kebaya as a symbol of “oppression.”

“Once kebaya has become a symbol of restraint against women. It can be seen in the New Order era, especially among mothers of Dharma Wanita. They willingly tortured by wearing tight kebaya and fabrics that look pretty and graceful. When it appeared as uniform or kebaya uniform, “said sociologist Julia Suryakusuma.

However, the kebaya is now more a part of fashion and lifestyle. Kebaya is no longer interpreted rigidly. “We can track the trend that the diutak fiddle with the designers was not far from the kebaya and batik. Apparently, the political awareness that the kebaya is already firmly entrenched national dress, “said Julia.

Collaboration among the women, fashion entrepreneurs, fashion designers, and lovers of culture to inspire younger generations that the kebaya is one of the nation’s identity to be kept from sight. In recent years, the trend continued to strengthen in the daily kebaya youth. Course in style and customized pieces.

“Right now there is a short-sleeved kebaya. They, in fact, combine with a pair of jeans. I also make kebaya by hand three quarters to make it more elegant, baseball complicated, and can be used as daily wear, “said Obin.

So-so we hope will also follow in the footsteps kebaya batik which nowadays has become part of everyday fashion. Do not let other countries hurried mengetap kebaya as their national dress and then we hit the ceiling (and then-yack loudly talking about the kebaya-without ever wear them). Kebaya, yes!
(Kompas)

Not all designers can design a ready-made clothes, you know. It was not easy to design ready-made clothing that can be worn a lot of people, “said Anne Avantie to Female Compass press conference after the launch Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear, some time ago at the Harris Hotel Kelapa Gading.

Anne Avantie is a designer whose names figure soared since 20 years ago. His work was in designing a wedding dress kebaya and already very well known and much imitated. In mid 2010, Anne ventured to try to get out of the glamor kebaya which makes it a well-known designers like now.

“This is a fashion show deg-degan most I’ve ever done,” said Anne opened the press conference accompanied by Taruna K., chairman of the Employers’ Association and the Indonesian Fashion Designer (APPMI). Anne said, to design dresses Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear this, he must get used to not touching or using brocade, lace, or sequins that have been familiar with their activities. In this life time collection ready, she should be willing to stick with the fabrics just for some people considered trash.

Lawasan, batik, which is commonly used for handicrafts, which are usually cut into small pieces, and when no longer used, collected, and then sold per kilo. In the story, Anne says she was moved to see such a traditional fabric is treated like dirt as if nothing mattered. Dawned in his mind to collect the pieces of fabric are then designed into a proper fashion wear.

“A lot of people if they see batik lawasan impressive, bright baseball, foul, or filthy. But I want to batik lawasan have prestige, charisma, and empowered. Not only the fabric, but also the collectors who collect these fabrics,” Anne’s story.

To dress in Batiken, Anne says that he tried he could order the offered price is quite affordable. Female Compass visited the booth where she models the collection at the Fashion Village in the event of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival in 2010, according to the guard, the offered price ranging from Rp 150,000 – Rp 800,000.

Removing this collection is not in vain, Midshipman mengatakna, that the ideas and thoughts to issue a collection of ready to wear this takes three years of Anne. Recognized by Anne, his efforts out ready to wear collection was not easy. He also made preparations to carry out research and many questions to the designers who sometimes younger than him but had already issued a ready to wear.

“I realized that my design was followed by many more people. I do not keep a sense of irritation or resentment. I am aware, with this launch, there will be praise and criticism from here and there. But most important, will there be any hope, both for batik lawasan, also to perajinnya, “Anne cap.Young designers from leading fashion schools in Jakarta and Bandung held a fashion show in the arena of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival (JFFF) 2010.

The annual event is entering his seventh this year, opening up space for the creation of talented fashion designers from the State University of Jakarta (UNJ), Institut Teknologi Bandung (ITB), and Esmod Jakarta.

Located in the Grand Ballroom of the Harris Hotel, Kelapa Gading, Jakarta, Monday (17/05/2010) then, with a total of more than 70 designers, young designers show off hundreds of fashion collections.

JFFF great theme this time was thick with the value tradition of Indonesia, Heritageous. His mission to transform Indonesia into a sense of the world. No doubt, fashion design students and alumni, from the three institutions this fashion is rich with local color.

Fashion show themed “Modecothic or Modern Ethnic Clothes” by students eight semesters of Education Studies Program dressmaking UNJ, gets the first turn.

By involving 58 designers, two of whom were male, Modecothic works inspired by traditional Indonesian fabric. The idea embodied in the model ready to wear clothing with a touch of modern style ulos cloths, filters, songket, striated, batik, and jumputan materials.

ITB students creativity no less unique. Smara Kriya is the theme raised in the fashion show. Simple design was worn barefoot models. Clothing knit overalls with supervisor’s attention. Not to mention soft and bright colors like purple, pink, white, and gold dominated the fashion collection of about 10 young designers.

Esmod alumni from different generations, starting in 1999 until 2009, was also a chance to showcase his work. Esmod shows its commitment to support the alumni to continue doing business in the fashion industry.

Esmod Reunion Show, themed “Archipelago” bring back 10 talented designers from JFFF Esmod in 2010. Again, two of whom are male. The young designer is still dominated by real women.

Design fashion designer ready to wear from Esmod more diverse target segments. If the student UNJ and ITB targeting more among women, alumni-who have the variant Esmod richer fashion-apparel market targeting teenage boys.

Despite diverse backgrounds, creativity of young fashion designers have in common. Female compass watch young designers to show the existence of femininity. Not only the design of the clothing market targeting women, but also the spirit of femininity is so prominent in each of their design.

Feminine color selection many students displayed UNJ and ITB. The spirit of rebellion without leaving the side of womanhood, with the concept of goth, appears in the design of the designer Syindicate Esmod, Evelyn Natalia Fransisca and Devi. The impression is also featured Prachrist rebel Daren from the UNJ and a number of other designers.

In fact, the design was quite unique teenage boy who, born from and Dian Intan Ayundavira Shidiinki Suryan with labels. Two young designers Esmod makes femininity as an inspiration, in creating memorable playful clothing for young men.

Confidence and kept refreshing fashion design school fashion was born than in Indonesia, as shown UNJ, ITB, and Esmod in JFFF Monday.

After the clothing and footwear, bags are the next option to look attractive. As well as clothing, bags reflect the personality of the wearer.

Julie Chanipot, from Balenciaga Asia-Pacific region, while showing a black bag in Papilion Duo, Jakarta, Tuesday (20 / 4) then, say, even though the bag was made for men, could women can also wear them. Moreover, the classical model is a box-shaped model that was always there from time to time.

From the collection for spring / summer 2010 for a bag lady, Balenciaga has a pledge “City”, “Work”, and “Papier”, a three-shaped handbag.

With a size that is not too large and bright colors, like red-purple, the City is a handbag that can be used for a relaxing atmosphere. Meanwhile, as the name implies, the Work is made to wear women at work. As for the large size, Papier can be used for those who like to carry lots of stuff.

“Women who have small children, for example, could include consumer goods as well as his son his own goods in one bag,” said Chanipot.

Balenciaga products of various kinds of bags, ranging from travel bags, handbags, shoulder bags, to wallets, to have the same characteristics, one of which is two knobs below the zipper and the other two in the corners of the bottom of the bag. Chanipot say, Balenciaga are sold everywhere, in Europe, America and Asia, has the same model.

“Our strengths to compete with others is an homage to couture designs. This is apparent from the detail contained in any design, “said Chanipot.

Another thing that the main attraction is the material that Balenciaga lambskin. “In the processing of other chemicals are not mixed, so it feels more refined,” he said.

Initially, Balenciaga was founded in Spain in 1914, but it must be closed when there was civil war in Spain (1936-1939). Balenciaga boutique was eventually moved and opened in Paris, France (1937). Currently the French multinational company owned by Balenciaga, PPR.

Kate Moss Bags
For those fans who know the product bag French origin, namely, Longchamp, this year could have a collection of “Kate Moss for Longchamp”. The model has eight seasons of France’s iconic home products are now believed to have his own label.

“I made this design bags according to my personality, not someone else. I also want a bag that I can create a functional and comfortable to carry, “Moss said, as quoted by The New York Times (2 / 2).

Different sources of inspiration, can travel bags from Gucci Zebra motif is seen Moss when the streets of Los Angeles. Moss used this motif for a collection called Gloucester. Moss’s buff animal motifs.

Another inspiration came from her partner, Jamie Hince, Moss when he was asked to imagine glamor, Elizabeth Taylor when her bag was delivered by a porter. Taylor’s imagination about this, plus knowledge about the glamor world Moss catwalk and red carpet, producing Sohoclutch design.

With a long adjustable strap / short, Sohoclutch can be used as a handbag or shoulder bag.

Broadly speaking, as contained in the site Longchamp, Moss design divides into three themes, namely Rock ‘n’ Casual form of the bags that you can wear everyday, Rock ‘n’ Travels consisting of a bag for travel, and Rock ‘ n ‘Glam whose designs suitable for use at special events.

Longchamp creative director Sophie Delafontaine-grandson of the founder of Longchamp, Jean-Casserain explain, in cooperation with Moss has a chance to develop. One of them visible from the development of markets in London, home to Moss. Delafontaine ensure, in cooperation with Moss not only lasted one season.

Tennis became the inspiration for Jean Paul Gaultier to design the Hermes bag collection for spring / summer 2010. In Paris Fashion Week, which took place in October 2009, the models wore clothing with tennis theme, complete with bags, some of which are made from snake and crocodile skin, with white, brown, and black.

Victoria Beckham is one of the fanatical lover of Hermes handbags. Wife of David Beckham has a collection of Hermes Birkin bag as many as 100 units, whose value reached more than 2 million U.S. dollars!

Young Designers Show Of Permissibility

Not all designers can design a ready-made clothes, you know. It was not easy to design ready-made clothing that can be worn a lot of people, “said Anne Avantie to Female Compass press conference after the launch Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear, some time ago at the Harris Hotel Kelapa Gading.

Anne Avantie is a designer whose names figure soared since 20 years ago. His work was in designing a wedding dress kebaya and already very well known and much imitated. In mid 2010, Anne ventured to try to get out of the glamor kebaya which makes it a well-known designers like now.

“This is a fashion show deg-degan most I’ve ever done,” said Anne opened the press conference accompanied by Taruna K., chairman of the Employers’ Association and the Indonesian Fashion Designer (APPMI). Anne said, to design dresses Batiken, Lawasan Ready to Wear this, he must get used to not touching or using brocade, lace, or sequins that have been familiar with their activities. In this life time collection ready, she should be willing to stick with the fabrics just for some people considered trash.

Lawasan, batik, which is commonly used for handicrafts, which are usually cut into small pieces, and when no longer used, collected, and then sold per kilo. In the story, Anne says she was moved to see such a traditional fabric is treated like dirt as if nothing mattered. Dawned in his mind to collect the pieces of fabric are then designed into a proper fashion wear.

“A lot of people if they see batik lawasan impressive, bright baseball, foul, or filthy. But I want to batik lawasan have prestige, charisma, and empowered. Not only the fabric, but also the collectors who collect these fabrics,” Anne’s story.

To dress in Batiken, Anne says that he tried he could order the offered price is quite affordable. Female Compass visited the booth where she models the collection at the Fashion Village in the event of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival in 2010, according to the guard, the offered price ranging from Rp 150,000 – Rp 800,000.

Removing this collection is not in vain, Midshipman mengatakna, that the ideas and thoughts to issue a collection of ready to wear this takes three years of Anne. Recognized by Anne, his efforts out ready to wear collection was not easy. He also made preparations to carry out research and many questions to the designers who sometimes younger than him but had already issued a ready to wear.

“I realized that my design was followed by many more people. I do not keep a sense of irritation or resentment. I am aware, with this launch, there will be praise and criticism from here and there. But most important, will there be any hope, both for batik lawasan, also to perajinnya, “Anne cap.

Young designers from leading fashion schools in Jakarta and Bandung held a fashion show in the arena of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival (JFFF) 2010.

The annual event is entering his seventh this year, opening up space for the creation of talented fashion designers from the State University of Jakarta (UNJ), Institut Teknologi Bandung (ITB), and Esmod Jakarta.

Located in the Grand Ballroom of the Harris Hotel, Kelapa Gading, Jakarta, Monday (17/05/2010) then, with a total of more than 70 designers, young designers show off hundreds of fashion collections.

JFFF great theme this time was thick with the value tradition of Indonesia, Heritageous. His mission to transform Indonesia into a sense of the world. No doubt, fashion design students and alumni, from the three institutions this fashion is rich with local color.

Fashion show themed “Modecothic or Modern Ethnic Clothes” by students eight semesters of Education Studies Program dressmaking UNJ, gets the first turn.

By involving 58 designers, two of whom were male, Modecothic works inspired by traditional Indonesian fabric. The idea embodied in the model ready to wear clothing with a touch of modern style ulos cloths, filters, songket, striated, batik, and jumputan materials.

ITB students creativity no less unique. Smara Kriya is the theme raised in the fashion show. Simple design was worn barefoot models. Clothing knit overalls with supervisor’s attention. Not to mention soft and bright colors like purple, pink, white, and gold dominated the fashion collection of about 10 young designers.

Esmod alumni from different generations, starting in 1999 until 2009, was also a chance to showcase his work. Esmod shows its commitment to support the alumni to continue doing business in the fashion industry.

Esmod Reunion Show, themed “Archipelago” bring back 10 talented designers from JFFF Esmod in 2010. Again, two of whom are male. The young designer is still dominated by real women.

Design fashion designer ready to wear from Esmod more diverse target segments. If the student UNJ and ITB targeting more among women, alumni-who have the variant Esmod richer fashion-apparel market targeting teenage boys.

Despite diverse backgrounds, creativity of young fashion designers have in common. Female compass watch young designers to show the existence of femininity. Not only the design of the clothing market targeting women, but also the spirit of femininity is so prominent in each of their design.

Feminine color selection many students displayed UNJ and ITB. The spirit of rebellion without leaving the side of womanhood, with the concept of goth, appears in the design of the designer Syindicate Esmod, Evelyn Natalia Fransisca and Devi. The impression is also featured Prachrist rebel Daren from the UNJ and a number of other designers.

In fact, the design was quite unique teenage boy who, born from and Dian Intan Ayundavira Shidiinki Suryan with labels. Two young designers Esmod makes femininity as an inspiration, in creating memorable playful clothing for young men.

Confidence and kept refreshing fashion design school fashion was born than in Indonesia, as shown UNJ, ITB, and Esmod in JFFF Monday

After the clothing and footwear, bags are the next option to look attractive. As well as clothing, bags reflect the personality of the wearer.

Julie Chanipot, from Balenciaga Asia-Pacific region, while showing a black bag in Papilion Duo, Jakarta, Tuesday (20 / 4) then, say, even though the bag was made for men, could women can also wear them. Moreover, the classical model is a box-shaped model that was always there from time to time.

From the collection for spring / summer 2010 for a bag lady, Balenciaga has a pledge “City”, “Work”, and “Papier”, a three-shaped handbag.

With a size that is not too large and bright colors, like red-purple, the City is a handbag that can be used for a relaxing atmosphere. Meanwhile, as the name implies, the Work is made to wear women at work. As for the large size, Papier can be used for those who like to carry lots of stuff.

“Women who have small children, for example, could include consumer goods as well as his son his own goods in one bag,” said Chanipot.

Balenciaga products of various kinds of bags, ranging from travel bags, handbags, shoulder bags, to wallets, to have the same characteristics, one of which is two knobs below the zipper and the other two in the corners of the bottom of the bag. Chanipot say, Balenciaga are sold everywhere, in Europe, America and Asia, has the same model.

“Our strengths to compete with others is an homage to couture designs. This is apparent from the detail contained in any design, “said Chanipot.

Another thing that the main attraction is the material that Balenciaga lambskin. “In the processing of other chemicals are not mixed, so it feels more refined,” he said.

Initially, Balenciaga was founded in Spain in 1914, but it must be closed when there was civil war in Spain (1936-1939). Balenciaga boutique was eventually moved and opened in Paris, France (1937). Currently the French multinational company owned by Balenciaga, PPR.

Kate Moss Bags
For those fans who know the product bag French origin, namely, Longchamp, this year could have a collection of “Kate Moss for Longchamp”. The model has eight seasons of France’s iconic home products are now believed to have his own label.

“I made this design bags according to my personality, not someone else. I also want a bag that I can create a functional and comfortable to carry, “Moss said, as quoted by The New York Times (2 / 2).

Different sources of inspiration, can travel bags from Gucci Zebra motif is seen Moss when the streets of Los Angeles. Moss used this motif for a collection called Gloucester. Moss’s buff animal motifs.

Another inspiration came from her partner, Jamie Hince, Moss when he was asked to imagine glamor, Elizabeth Taylor when her bag was delivered by a porter. Taylor’s imagination about this, plus knowledge about the glamor world Moss catwalk and red carpet, producing Sohoclutch design.

With a long adjustable strap / short, Sohoclutch can be used as a handbag or shoulder bag.

Broadly speaking, as contained in the site Longchamp, Moss design divides into three themes, namely Rock ‘n’ Casual form of the bags that you can wear everyday, Rock ‘n’ Travels consisting of a bag for travel, and Rock ‘ n ‘Glam whose designs suitable for use at special events.

Longchamp creative director Sophie Delafontaine-grandson of the founder of Longchamp, Jean-Casserain explain, in cooperation with Moss has a chance to develop. One of them visible from the development of markets in London, home to Moss. Delafontaine ensure, in cooperation with Moss not only lasted one season.

Tennis became the inspiration for Jean Paul Gaultier to design the Hermes bag collection for spring / summer 2010. In Paris Fashion Week, which took place in October 2009, the models wore clothing with tennis theme, complete with bags, some of which are made from snake and crocodile skin, with white, brown, and black.

Victoria Beckham is one of the fanatical lover of Hermes handbags. Wife of David Beckham has a collection of Hermes Birkin bag as many as 100 units, whose value reached more than 2 million U.S. dollars!

When there are clothes that give a lot of inspiration for the “fashion”, social status or identity, it is the kebaya. For us, kebaya closely with everyday. Clothing was worn grandmother and parents, ranging from Mbok herbalist to the mother country.

On an afternoon at the end of April, guests meet the performance kebaya Amy Atmanto in a shopping center in the region’s elite Thamrin, Jakarta. Officials, former officials, and socialite blend into one. Just call Linda Agum Gumelar, Siti Fadilah Supari, Mien Uno, Rima Melati, scheduled to Tati, until Marini Zumarnis and Diah Permata Sari. All wore kebaya kebaya praised each other and they used one another.

Interestingly, not only the nuances of color that filled the room, but also no visible kebaya “uniform”. Red kebaya worn Fadilah Supari, for example, away from formal impression. Cloth he wore was relaxed, like a coil sheath. In her kebaya, Fadilah figure that as long as a health minister was once known to impress even more relaxed straightforward.

Kebaya became a hot issue throughout April. Could be because April is closely associated with Kartini Day, while warning of Kartini is often associated with the kebaya. That month is also usually an opportunity for senior designers and new to re-interpret the kebaya in accordance with the current character of Indonesian women.

Looking back, the journey was very long kebaya. Kebaya was first used in Indonesia around the 16th century. According to the homeowner fabric Bin House, Josephine Komara, or known by Obin, Indonesian people are not familiar with the culture used to wear clothes, but wearing kemben. “My start was known as the Portuguese and Dutch arrived. This shirt is then used to continue to use so that emerges form kemben kebaya, kebaya bef, “said Obin.

Due to cultural buttons unknown in Indonesia, women in the past wearing a pin to unite the two sides of the shirt. “And, Kartini was born a kebaya. Plus beads, safety pins also function be decorative, “said Obin, who had known since childhood kebaya. He claimed to really enjoy wearing kebaya. “Women certainly have a tendency to wear something that makes it more beautiful and comfortable. For that, I choose the kebaya, “he said.

Political symbol
In the journey, kebaya has played a variety of functions, whether political, social, or cultural. Henk Schulte Nordholt, in his book, Outward Appearances, for example, write down how kebaya has become a political symbol of Indonesian women.

During the Japanese occupation period (1942-1945), the Indonesian woman who was then a prisoner of war rather than choose to wear kebaya cloth wearing Western-style resistance. This attitude indicates a political position to distinguish themselves with women prisoners of war from the Netherlands.

Not surprisingly, the post-independence President Sukarno and then transforming the kebaya as the national dress. However, the position of “honor” that disappeared in the New Order era. Kebaya became mandatory uniform Dharma Wanita and women in the civil service environment required to become members of Dharma Wanita. Function “control” imposed by kebaya makes some political literacy of women in those days to be antipathy and linking kebaya as a symbol of “oppression.”

“Once kebaya has become a symbol of restraint against women. It can be seen in the New Order era, especially among mothers of Dharma Wanita. They willingly tortured by wearing tight kebaya and fabrics that look pretty and graceful. When it appeared as uniform or kebaya uniform, “said sociologist Julia Suryakusuma.

However, the kebaya is now more a part of fashion and lifestyle. Kebaya is no longer interpreted rigidly. “We can track the trend that the diutak fiddle with the designers was not far from the kebaya and batik. Apparently, the political awareness that the kebaya is already firmly entrenched national dress, “said Julia.

Collaboration among the women, fashion entrepreneurs, fashion designers, and lovers of culture to inspire younger generations that the kebaya is one of the nation’s identity to be kept from sight. In recent years, the trend continued to strengthen in the daily kebaya youth. Course in style and customized pieces.

“Right now there is a short-sleeved kebaya. They, in fact, combine with a pair of jeans. I also make kebaya by hand three quarters to make it more elegant, baseball complicated, and can be used as daily wear, “said Obin.

So-so we hope will also follow in the footsteps kebaya batik which nowadays has become part of everyday fashion. Do not let other countries hurried mengetap kebaya as their national dress and then we hit the ceiling (and then-yack loudly talking about the kebaya-without ever wear them).

Kelly Clarkson's Airbrushing Controversy

kelly Clarkson's recent magazine front cover was airbrushed to ensure she looked "her personal best".

Self magazine has defended the decision to digitally slim down an image of the 'My Life Would Suck Without You' singer for their September issue.

Lucy Danziger, editor-in-chief of the women's health magazine, said in a posting on Self.com: "Do we retouch? Yes! Did we alter her appearance? Only to make her look her personal best.

"Of course we do retouching. We correct colour and other aspects of the digital pictures we take and then publish the best version we can.

Self magazine has defended the decision to digitally slim down an image of the 'My Life Would Suck Without You' singer for their September issue

"Did we publish an act of fiction? No. Not unless you think all photos are that. But in the sense that Kelly is the picture of confidence, and she truly is, then I think this photo is the truest we have ever put out there on the newsstand."

Danziger believes Kelly's altered appearance is "inspiring" to women, despite claiming the former 'American Idol' winner is a great role model because she doesn't care about her weight.

She said: "This is art, creativity and collaboration. It is meant to inspire women to want to be their best. That is the point.

"That is what we all relate to. Whether she is up or down in pounds is irrelevant (and to set the record straight, she works out and does boot-camp-style training, so she is as fit as anyone else we have featured in Self). Kelly says she doesn't care what people think of her weight. So we say, that is the role model for the rest of us."

In an interview with the magazine, the 27-year-old singer insisted she doesn't worry about her body even though she is often criticised for her fluctuating figure.

She said: "My happy weight changes. Sometimes I eat more, sometimes I play more. I'll be different sizes all the time.

"When people talk about my weight, I'm like, 'You seem to have a problem with it,' I don't. I'm fine! I've never felt uncomfortable on the red carpet or anything."

fashion and lifestyle

It seems that today's celebrities are now starting to bring hairstyles from the past and turning them into stunning fresh looks. Just be careful because with any hairstyle having the right clothing decor can make or break your hairstyle.

One of the primary parts of hairstyles, which is why it is presented here, is the hairstyle length. Hairstyle length can totally decide what types of looks can be achieved. Longer hairstyles can develop longer waves or fancy updos without the need for extensions. Medium lengths are very versatile and tons of distinctive looks can be produced like classic bobs and sleek simple cuts. Short hairstyles have wavered in popularity but women seem to love shorter hair because of it is easier to take care of and style. One of the hottest short hairstyles is definitely Natalie Portman's pixie cut which shows that short hairstyles do not fail to keep up in style with other hairstyle lengths. Because hair takes a while to grow out, changing hairstyle lengths can be pretty hard, especially changing from long to short. For shorter hairstyles, hair extensions and pieces have become popular accessories for fashioning longer hairstyles.

New years and new hairstyles often go hand in hand and discovering a new hairstyle sometimes involve changing the length of the hairstyle itself. The length of hair can produce varying hairstyles and is an integral part of any hairstyle. There are specific hairstyles that look better at certain lengths than others and sometimes a change in length can be very refreshing as women who have switched from longer locks to a short or mid-length know all to well.

Selecting the right hairstyles

Everybody is different and choosing hairstyles that match each person will depend on these difference. A person who is more into punk will desire wilder hairstyles to match where as a lawyer may have a more maintained hairstyle. Other aspects such as occasion and facial shape also equate into what type of hairstyles are best for each person. A person going to the beach may wear hairstyles that are more relaxed and down where a prom attending senior in high school may want a beautiful updo. Facial shapes also warrant diverse hairstyles. Hairstyles with sweeping bangs are a good choice for angular jawlines and can contribute to framing other facial shapes as well. The right hairstyles also include proper texture and color which are two of the most important elements. Everyone wants soft, beautiful hair but not everyone is that lucky. Thus different ways of adding extras to hairstyles including waves, curls, and braids may be better choices for some than others. Additional textures like choppy and sleek add variation to hairstyles. Color is one of the best ways to change hairstyles for totally different remakes. The possible hair colors; red, blond, brunette, and dark all have deviating shades that generate unique looks even with similar hairstyles. This is easily seen in the color changes of celebrities like Lindsay Lohan and Rachel McAdams who have interchanged many variant hair colors. These are all factors to think about before committing oneself to a hairstyle.

dress woman fashion

he bras of the early 20s include home made ones in white cotton and which were little more than bust bodices with extra separation. Some purchased bras were like camisoles and they offered no support.

Big busted girls turned to bandaging their breasts flat, but many adopted the Symington Side Lacer, a bra that could be laced at both sides and pulled and pulled in to flatten the chest.

For young ladies with youthful figures a satisfactory bra was the four sectioned lace bandeau bra, lined in net. None of the bras gave much shape, but few ladies were seeking anything more than stopping the bust from wobbling. As long as they looked boyish they looked fashionable.

By the 1930s Triumph, Maidenform, Gossard, Warner Brothers, Spirella, Twilfit and Symingtons were all making bras that did the job of separating the breasts. At the same time it was finally acknowledged that women had differing cup sizes and bra sales doubled with the new designs.

Girdles and Underwear

Between 1920 and 1928 corset sales declined by two thirds, but it adapted to changing needs. Fast flappers refused to wear corsets and rolled their stockings to the knee to enable them to dance easily. Long Corsets produced the boyish figure, but instead of thick boned corsets many women preferred thin elastic webbing Lastex girdles that flattened the abdomen. Suspenders were attached to the girdles.

Underwear was minimal, sheer and lightweight. Women wore cami-bockers (directoire knickers and chemise) or cami-knickers or knickers and a petticoat. I have seen some searches for these as director knickers so let's be clear the term is directoire.

Right - 1

dress dezaning fashion

ING past years the boys' trade in this country has been like a ship without a rudder, so far as fashions are concerned, tossing aimlessly, fully equipped, but heading nowhere in particular; uncertain, careless at times as to the outcome, and always eager for a safe haven, but not able to attain it. In other words, the trade was leaderless.
This magazine, heavily handicapped, as it has been, in its "mewling" days, will co-ordinate ideas and set things straight. We shall soon have controversies in the trade as to whether a boy of ten should wear a vestee suit or whether a boy of fifteen should wear an Eton jacket-or a Tuxedo at his birthday party, and such matters of proper usage. But, vastly more important, we shall see the boys' departments take on new life and interest under the inspiration of the only leadership in the field: and, equally important, the trend of fashion will be sensed and chronicled and the production of novel, artistic and smart creations will become a matter of pride among designers and tailors.
It is one thing to record a tendency when it develops; it is quite another to predict the near advent of an entirely new and unexpected fashion. The latter I am doing this month, confident that events will shortly bear out my views.
In brief, I venture to prophesy that during Nineteen Twenty we shall witness the successful introduction of short pants, otherwise known as "shorts." in boys' school and play suits. Prominent students of boys' fashions agree with my prediction. The subject is so interesting that I am giving these two pages to it alone.
Well do I remember the "shorts" of my boyhood days; tight-fitting things that bound the muscles of my thighs so that after riding a bicycle, say to Brighton Beach. I would look upon them and marvel that they did not burst apart.
But the "shorts" that have been known hereabouts in recent years are those which the Boy Scouts have as a part of their regulation outfit. They are almost as loose as running pants, but of course in khaki, and they are used for the big outdoors, being too loose and light in weight to look well for any dignified occasion.
The "shorts" that I believe will soon appear on the market are of the sort pictured opposite, a cross between the snug-fitting pants of unhappy memory and the modern khakis of sport. The length of them is to a point just above the bend of the knee. And that, apart from the boy's fondness for easy garments, which are best adapted romping, is one reason for heralding them as a coming fashion. The boy of today wants to wear leggings and to have his knees bare during the warmer months.
This desire has been apparent in recent summers, when many boys have worn knickers fastened above the knee and leggings, though the two clearly do not go well together. Knees bend easier when there's nothing on them, you know, and that's what boys' knees are doing most of the time during waking hours.
"Shorts" of this type have been worn by English boys for about thirty years. Just occasionally one sees them on this side when an English boy has crossed the deep, but that has been extremely rare even since the armistice. Now we may expect the more enterprising shops to be showing and advertising them before the spring season is over, as the most advanced note in boys' dress.
Our artist was of English birth, and his portrayal here is just what he has beheld scores of times as the clothes of the upper class boy of London. When the writer suggested showing the boy without a jacket, so that the details of the shirt and the fact that the pants have no back pockets might be apparent, he remonstrated. No, no; an English boy would not think of appearing out-of-doors without his jacket on, and we must start our fashion articles with the highest possible standard of good form in mind, just as we have done in compiling the Correct Dress Chart for Boys.
And there's something in that. We don't think American boys care a fig whether English boys wear their jackets always or not, nor will they change their custom of shedding the jacket for all strenuous games and whenever it becomes oppressive. But we'll have to hand it to the English boy and to his portrait artist for the smartness of his get-up. The more I have looked at this picture the better I have come to like it.
The cap shown is full of crown, in a rough tweed or homespun material to match his suit. The suit has low, self attached collar, patch pockets and sleeves, detachable just above the elbows. For spring the best wear in cravats will be bias striped four-in-hands in bright contrasting colors.
The stockings with the suit will be either golf legging with the heavy cuff top, of Scottish woolens, or plain black stockings rolled down below the knee as in the sketch on page 24 of this issue. The shoes will be heavy brogues, much perforated, of dark brown or black.
One particular reason why I am glad to see this new mode in the making is that the way the older boys wear their knickers nowadays is getting on my nerves. It seems that in the peculiar code of their clan, "only kids wear their knickers fastened below the knees." The older boys pull them down below the knees, making an unsightly effect for which they were never intended. The new "shorts" will remove this practice for all time-I hope.
Lovat The Boys' Outfitter, April, 1920
Usage Critical in England
Article from The Boys' Outfitter
LONDON-Juvenile outfitting in this old country differs fundamentally from what you find anywhere else in the world.. The shirt-waist boy of America, for instance, is unknown. Boys take off jacket and waistcoat for games-or a fight. But they do not go to the cricket field or any other scene of sport in the clothes which they will wear during the game. , There is no necessity, we think here, to walkthrough the streets, or even along a country road, in what an English boy would consider only half a suit or less. Soft shirts are worn at school, by boys of almost any age; and nowadays, as soon as a boy reaches the collar period at all, he puts on a soft collar, if there isn't one attached to his shirt, for all occasions except when he is being dragged off by his mother or sisters to some abhorred social duty. .Then he wears what he calls "Etons"-equivalent to the morning-coat outfit of his father-of which more anon. From the moment a boy leaves the nursery-and-long-hair period behind him his costume is largely determined by the convenience with which it can be cast off for formal games, and worn in the playground for games that are informal. Sporting costume is a strict and conventional thing. We do not go in for the protective devices used in America for baseball and football, though leg pads and gloves are worn by the batsman at cricket. Baseball we do not play at all, though there is a poor and undeveloped embryo of it in the playground, played with a soft ball and called rounders. I notice that a real, unadulterated American baseball fan becomes angry when told that baseball is only a glorified form of rounders-but it is.
Outfit for the Cricket Field
As often as not the wicket-keeper does not wear gloves. He catches better, and not worse, without them. Cricket, you must remember, is an almost religious ceremony here, To my mind it is one of the silliest games ever invented, and I never thought otherwise, even before I saw a baseball match, though it would have been bad policy, at a public school, to say so. American writers have complained of the slowness of a game in which a single player often makes' a hundred runs, and a side, of eleven players, 600. They also remark with acerbity 'that we say, "well played, sir," when we mean "attaboy." The implications are .the same. In the mid-Victorian age men played cricket in tall hats. Pictures in color of side-whiskered veterans in wide trousers, stiff collars, starched shirts-and ridiculously high hats of grey felt, stovepipe shape, adorn every clubhouse. Boys of a public school-in this country the term means one of a very small number of schools, all of ancient foundation, attended by the sons of the wealthy-wore tall hats at cricket, too. ^ Nowadays the outfit.'-is a pair of white flannel trousers, kept up by a wide silk-ribbon belt of the school colors, a silk shirt, white buckskin shoes with spikes or studs to prevent slipping, and a flannel cap, again of the club colors, but not always worn during play. Boys change into this costume in the pavilion at big inter-school matches. At house-matches they commonly arrive ready to play, having "changed" in the dormitories. Cricket owes more to inspiration than to perspiration. But after all games an English boy takes a cold shower and gets into loose clothes.
Short Knickers for Football
Football, which, as a game, is worth ten of cricket, is played in short flannel knickers with perfectly plain ends, bare legs, heavy hob-nailed half-boots of chrome leather, and a jersey. It necessitates a complete change before and after play, especially after, as a serious player, particularly of the Rugby game, is liable to have little of him visible, for mud, when the whistle blows "time." A very complete bath, with soap, is therefore indicated. Football in the Winter, and cricket in the Summer, are the only games treated seriously at good-class schools. Lawn tennis is beginning to be introduced, but schools do not challenge each other as yet. Lacrosse and hockey are, strange to say, girls' games here.
The two official games are played as an integral part of the school curriculum and in the playing-field. But inferior versions of them, and less august games, are played in the school playground, especially in the lesser public schools and in boarding schools which, though they may be just as expensive to attend, do not rank as "public." It is for convenience in starting one of these games with scratch teams that a boy's ordinary working outfit for school life is designed in soft, loose-fitting styles.
First the Velveteen Fauntleroy
It may be convenient, in this preliminary letter, to follow an English boy through his sartorial career-if yon will excuse, just for once, the detestable adjective.
When he is, as we call it, breeched-that is, when he ceases to wear frocks--3. well-to-do child who will presently become a boy is generally put into a velveteen suit, rather of the Fauntleroy order, and wears his hair long, A lace collar, and perhaps cuffs, adorn him, to his discomfort when he meets boys of slightly lower social status. In the Summer the suit may be of shantung silk. Boys of less wealthy origin often wear horrid little suits of striped galatea-a kind of stout cotton, rather like a bolster case--in hot weather, and a waistcoatless cloth suit in Winter. Both, in Winter, will wear a short overcoat, half-way down the thigh, and long buttoned gaiters, like Edna May in "The Belle of New York," if you haven't forgotten it, to reach to the same point upwards.
Sailor Suit Is Next Step
The next step, but never until the hair is cut, is usually to the sailor suit, and on this subject a very important remark must be set down. No English mother of any standing would allow her boy to wear what, in the cheaper trade, is called a "fancy" sailor suit-made with sailor-style blouse and large collar, but in silk or velveteen. A sailor suit isn't correct unless it is made of blue serge with long trousers, which can be either white duck or blue serge, matching the blouse. Similarly, the collar can be either of duck or of serge, with the lines of braiding on it of blue or white in contrast. Little boys wear these with knickerbockers and the legs in that case are always bare.
But the sailor suit goes further than I have been saying. Of course it is not the only available outfit for a little boy coming out of frocks. He can have a Norfolk or what we call a Rugby suit, and this will have either knickerbockers or breeches, and in either case will be worn. with stockings.
The sailor suit really comes into its own and is the correct wear for a good many years when it takes on the authentic sailor style, made of real Admiralty serge, designed in regulation style, and fitted with all the navy attachments. The children of the Royal Family in all its branches invariably wear sailor suits of this type during the years when they are of the right age for. it. Two firms-Rowe of Gosport and Morant of Southampton--specialize in these correct-style sailor suits. Rowe has a fine place in Bond Street, selling all kinds of juvenile outfits, but specializing on the sailor suit. Both firms are actual contractors to the Admiralty for serge, which, according to Admiralty requirements, must be of pure new wool and dyed with natural indigo.
The suit includes such things as lanyard, pocketknife, whistle, and a large-brimmed soft hat of the man-o'-war pattern. Although worn by boys who would not be in long trousers ordinarily and do not wear long trousers with their Norfolk suits, these correct sailor suits are never made with knickers, and the trousers are made in the generous width made famous by' the navy. It is possible to tell a little gentleman at sight when he wears a sailor suit. There is never anything wrong with the details.
The Eton His Formal Dress
Just as a boy wears long trousers as soon as he gets into a sailor suit, so also he wears long trousers when he gets his first formal outfit, which we call an Eton suit. This consists for day wear of a black jacket and waistcoat, the waistcoat generally having a special collar and the jacket being of the regular Eton type. It is hollowed out round the lower hem, with a sort of point in the middle. Americans who see these things for the first time call them Manx coats. They look so much as if they ought to have tails but do not have any. Grey tweed or cashmere trousers are worn and a stiff white shirt, never a colored shirt.
The linen collar is, a very large turned-down pattern, never, I think, varying, and called the Eton collar, and it is put on over and outside the collar of the jacket. Usually a black silk knot is worn, or el se a knot of school colors. The essentially correct headgear is a tall hat, much like a man's, but with the brim rather close. A straw boater is sometimes worn, however, and you may occasionally see a flannel cap of school colors, though this should not be worn.
A properly-made Eton suit, custom-made by father's tailor, is the mark of the young aristocrat. As I have said, it is always worn with long trousers, no matter how small the boy. A tiny little chap of seven in these long trousers. and with the tall hat, looks funny to the unaccustomed eye, but undoubtedly he does look a little gentleman. I think it may be said as a general rule that the higher the class of the family the sooner long trousers are worn.
Evening Suit of Broadcloth
For parties an evening suit, with black trousers, Eton jacket and a black waistcoat, cut almost as low as a man's evening waistcoat, is worn by boys from ten years upwards until they: go into tails. Then they wear a white tie with the ends under the collar. This suit is usually made of that obsolete material, broadcloth, not in twill or hopsack, like a man's evening suit. Low shoes of patent leather and silk socks go with it.-THE BARON.

dress dezaning

Summer is almost here, fashion trends give us an opportunity to choose. Summer dresses are the perfect solution to your summer events like

parties, weddings, barbeque parties, etc. Let’s look at what’s the hot dress for this summer.

1.Long dress
In the Daily Mail’s article, "Maxi dresses — the must-have this summer." This year’s version of the dress trend has taken on a fun new twist with

the return of the long dress - it’s a comfortable, fun, throwback to 60’s bohemian fashion. It can be so much sexier to make your outfit focus on

one body part at a time, and long dresses are a great way to show off your upper body. If you are short you can still wear a maxi but make sure

you choose a style that skims your figure rather then swamps it. If you’re tall, this look was made for you!

2. Floral Prints dress
Aware of the importance of florals, the talented in-house design team have created a modern take on femininity, full of print and color. The new

floral is strong, modern and sometimes eye-popping. Bold prints are cool and fun; but be sure to pair them with neutral accessories. If you wear a

floral print dress this summer you will have bought into the latest floral fashion trend.

3.Geometric prints dress
This summer the geometric print dresses are also a favorite for 2008 summer dress trends, especially the long dress with colorful geometric

prints.

4. Ruffles
Ruffles are everywhere from skirts, shirts, smock tunic tops, mini to maxi dresses. Ruffled dresses add shape and femininity to a petite or boyish

figure, but if you are closer to an apple shape (big bust and stomach) then do ruffles in moderation. If you are pear-shaped, then concentrate the

ruffles on your top half to draw attention away from your bottom and hips.

Pair your dress with a pair of Gladiator sandals and you'll be as beautiful as a goddess from the era inspiring this season's fashion!

fashion trends

FRINGE BENEFITS

24.06.10 Lauren Wilkinson

If you want to change your hair without sacrificing your current colour or length a fringe is the perfect new addition. Before you take the chop, make sure you’re getting it right and choose a style which will complement your face shape. Let ghd show you how.

Square shaped faces are best suited towards delicately layered fringes that have a bit of length to them. This wispy style gives the illusion of a rounder face and toning down hard features.

If your face is long and pointed then opt for an angled side swept fringe which stems from a side parting. This will balance the face, shortening the length of the face and creating a softer look.

Round faces can get away with most fringe style, but should always avoid longer styles which shorten the face.

If, like Christina Ricci, you have a heart shaped face then you can pull off an ultra stylish blunt fringe. The sharp, heavy style creates proportion for long chins.

Finally, if you have an oval shaped face, you can count yourself lucky. Oval faces are very

fashion trends

tt

This season fashion is laughing in the face of the economic recession with a myriad of city slicker suits and jackets in decidedly grown up pinstripe fabrics. The vertical stripes are back in style, so stick it to the boss with this newly reinvented boardroom pattern. During summer 2010, we mean business.

If you fancy working it like a Wall Street wonder then choose your pin stripe pieces carefully. Consider the outfit as a classic investment that can be worn again and again for many years to come. That means veering away from styles which are too on trend; oversized shoulders, cropped jackets and hareem trousers are all out of the question.

Instead, set your heart on timeless cuts which suit your body shape but make sure it’s something that you can wear anytime, with anything, without it looking like office wear. Tapered trousers will never look out of place but for a style that you can throw on time and time again, opt for a shapely, fitted jacket or blazer.

Mix things up by teaming pinstripes with floral prints and girly dresses like Roberto Cavalli, or take the traditional route and wear a tailored suit for a sharp yet elegant look. Job done.

fashion trends

PROM NIGHT

17.06.10 Lorna Moore

There’s no denying that every girl desires to look like royalty at their prom, but how do you ensure you channel Pop Princess and avoid Princess Anne? Easy, simply follow our guide to the best hair styles for your prom night.

Whatever look you go for, make sure you that it is modern and youthful. Opting for an old fashioned style can look dated and frumpy. Instead, keep it fresh and on trend, avoiding anything stiff or too ‘done’, which can look more suited to a bridal party than an end of school party.

As well as choosing a contemporary, trend focussed style, take the shape and style of your dress into consideration.

Dishevelled curls look their best with spaghetti straps, delicate jewellery and dresses that have minimal detail around the shoulders and neckline. Undressed updos are a versatile choice, working well with all dresses, but keep it very soft to avoid it looking harshly scraped back with strapless frocks.

Tumbling plaits and waves create a boho vibe and ensure an easy going glam look when worn with delicate floaty dresses. If you’ve picked out a halter neck dress, consider

fashion and lifestye

When I was 11 years old, I threw a no-hitter in a Little League game. I’d say I was happy when it happened, but I’d be lying. It was actually a pretty ugly performance. The game ended with the score being something like 5-2 and I wouldn’t have even known I had pitched a no-hitter if my coach at the time hadn’t gone back through the box score of the game later that night and called me up after he discovered that I’d actually thrown a no-no thanks to a series of errors, walks, and wild pitches that allowed plenty of base-runners and even a couple runs but no actual hits. Do I look back now and brag about doing it? Um…yeah! But realistically, I threw what had to be one of the ugliest no-hitters in Little League history.

I bring this up because Arizona Diamondbacks pitcher Edwin Jackson recently threw a no-hitter of his own. And while I wouldn’t exactly compare it to my Little League performance, it was (almost) as ugly. Jackson walked eight batters during the course of the game, hit another and threw a wild pitch. In the third inning of the game, he actually managed to load the bases—with no outs!—before working himself out of a jam. But regardless of the trouble that he ran into, he went on to claim a 1-0 victory and a no-hitter when it was all said and done.

fashion and lifestyle

Share

The female MC’s playground may be crawling with Barbies and kaleidoscopic wigs right now, but we all know who shall forever sit atop the monkey bars looking down on these other little rap girls—Lauryn Noel Hill! The hip-hop icon who has been ghost for far too many years (don’t be afraid to blame Rohan Marley’s treacherous island p***s), has been making a few surprising appearances in public lately. She ripped the stage at the LA Harmony Festival a few weeks ago and will also be a headlining act on this year’s Rock The Bells tour—the fans are more excited than a Jamaican with jerk seasoning!

L-Boogie recently spoke with National Public Radio and explained why she had been missing in action for so long.

“There were a number of different reasons,” she says. “But partly, the support system that I needed was not necessarily in place. There were things about myself, personal-growth things, that I had to go through in order to feel like it was worth it. Oftentimes, I think people are forced to make decisions prematurely. And then that sound radiates.”

“I’m trying to open up my range and really sing more,” she says. “With The Fugees initially, and even with Miseducation, it was very hip-hop—always a singing over beats. I don’t think people have really heard me sing out. So if I do record again, perhaps it will have an expanded context. Where people can hear a bit more.”

“I don’t know if you know this, but I have five children,” she says. “The youngest is two now, so she’s old enough that I can leave her for a period of time and know she’s going to be okay. That’s one reason [Hill is starting to perform again]. And I think it’s just time. I’m starting to get excited again. Believe it or not, I think what people are attracted to about me, if anything, is my passion. People got exposed to my passion through music and song first. I think people might realize, you know, ‘We love the way she sounds, we love the music, but I think we just love how fearless she is. How boundless she is, when it comes to what she wants to do.’ And I think that can be infectious.” [NPR]

In case any of you kids are not hip to the magnificence that is Lauryn Hill, here is a quick note: Her debut solo album, The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill, debuted at number one and has sold over eight million copies in the US alone. It was nominated for ten Grammys and won five including Album of the Year. She was the first female to receive so many Grammy nominations and awards in one night. A single strand of Ms. Hill’s hair is greater than your favorite female rapper and they would probably kill for it.

fashion and lifestyle

Posted by Fessiyah Alwee on June 10th, 2010

A new concept store where customers can obtain information on the latest trends, news and all that occur in the main gateways and the most prominent international and national brands.

You can also ask your personal shopper on those tips you need to know how they should be dressed for a particular celebration, or stop by our proposal looks for suggestions tailored to their dress, or exchange views with other clients in this bog, try on a garment on a virtual mannequin, or send to a friend who likes to dress … All this in a fun, participatory and agile.

new online fashion store El Corte English

The design of this new trendy area allows quick navigation and multiple forms of clothing grouped by different criteria: color, brand, size, price … To have complete information items are presented with photographs of different sizes and angles, zoom, video, ability to assess and exchange views, a detailed size chart that links the Spanish and international, a complete file with the characteristics and maintenance tips, and advice by specialists proposed combination when it comes to clothing.

Another important point to give customers the best service, has been the streamlining of all logistics processes to shorten delivery times to the home and provide other alternatives, such as Internet booking and collect in any of the stores English Court, and the possibility of a return in the same order.

fashion and lifestyle

Posted by Fessiyah Alwee on June 15th, 2010

The director of the women’s magazine Marie Claire, Joanna Bonnet, the editor of that publication, Isabel Vaquero and executive director of the Association of Fashion Designers of Spain and also a professor of the course, Lucia Curdier, have simulated a press conference in the beautiful building of the Foundation Fernando de Castro of Madrid. The three professionals have gathered in the First Course of Journalism and Communication of Fashion students have the opportunity to ask your questions and doubts about the world of fashion and magazines, at the hands of professionals.
In this sense, we have talked about new developments and new technologies that have changed the way we learn in society: “The paper is in decline. Internet has revolutionized and time has revolutionized the information, “Joanna Bonnet has responded to the students’ curiosity to see the perception that he was the director of the magazine, to this phenomenon that breaks in society today.
However, some things never change. Marie Claire is still concerning, either on paper or on the Internet to create community and social.
Furthermore, there has been we have to place more for the Spanish fashion. That is a role that journalists have to do as much together as designers. It has also stressed the need for good journalists in the field, specialized. In short, it has qualified in terms of fashion and information that “the historical moment requires us to communicate, to translate the needs of each other: designers and fashion journalists” and that “we must promote professionalization of the sector. You cannot leave fashion at the hands of Paris Hilton, “said Curdier.

fashion and lifestyle

Posted by Fessiyah Alwee on June 15th, 2010

In the modern era of multistyle usual with different urban tribes living together in cities. Different ways of understanding the beauty, fashion and even lifestyle. This coexistence is fully enriching for society as it brings different notes of freshness. However, do you really know how to live? For that reason, I will try over time to approach them and expose them on the bog, from an objective point of view and the basic rule that each is as valid as another is. To begin we will automatically made a trip to the most current, the fusionist.

We could say that being a fashion stems from the need for wearing the latest fad fashion, know all the trends in force and, of course, know as the alphabet all the latest news of the great designers. Belonging to this urban tribe is constantly recycled and stay in touch with all the beauty and fashion information that comes within reach.

Learn from the most current makeup of the season for apparel fabrics, prints, and chic to the terrace for cocktails, the new and unique vocabulary, or the latest technology releases to the market (mobile phones, computers …). This constant renewal is the need to stay in a social group with a considerable income and free time to devote to visit the shops and view all the publications specializing in fashion. A pace of life available to everyone, hence the exclusivity plays a role very relevant to this philosophy of life.

fishion and lifestyle

Posted by Fessiyah Alwee on June 20th, 2010

BAL main in his collection at Fashion Week in Paris for the 2010 fall season, I present metallic dresses in shades of gold, and robes, beads, slats, and chains. Metallic dresses added a charming touch of magic to each of the models, which showed rocker chic opulence.

The Rocha’s collection at Fashion Week in Paris in 2010, showed metallic dresses and metallic brocade robe. Where the clothes are presented in metallic, colors look suitable for an outstanding day and at night. The trend of metallic dresses for fall 2010, are unique and the house Rocha’s designer, it became visible in retro dresses with distinctive shiny gold tone.

The golden colored metallic shades were not confined only to the dresses; jackets could also be seen as Dries Van Note Fall Collection in 2010. The exhibition of her dresses staged at the Paris Fashion Week, also delivering metallic dresses and metallic jackets for women as a whole where the silhouettes and highlights the brilliance of platinum.

The tendency of metallic dresses was also seen on the catwalks of Milan and New York in its presentation of the Fashion Week. Emilio Puce Fall 2010 Collection with the Fashion Week in Milan, presented metallic dresses made to shine down the runway thanks to designer Peter Dumas, where her gold dress was amazing.

Max Mara was another house designer who showed his fall collection in 2010, metallic dresses look very feminine and sexy, as well as being perfect for a party or night out with friends.

fashion and lifestyle

What may be considered the biggest upset in mixed martial arts in the past decade took place on Saturday night as Fabricio Werdum defeated Fedor Emelianenko, long considered the best fighter in the world, in the main event of Strikeforce and M-1 Global’s co-promoted event in San Jose, CA. Many expected the great Fedor to stomp yet another mudhole in the competition as Werdum’s only chance to win would be to suck “The Last Emporer” into his lauded ground game— and that is exactly what he did.

Sixty-nine seconds after the opening bell, Fedor was trapped in a vicious triangle choke and found himself tapping out for the first time in his 10-year career. It wasn’t so much the fact Fedor finally lost legitimately (his other loss was a stoppage back in 2000 due to a nasty cut). Rather, this concerns the man to whom he lost. Werdum is certainly no slouch as a fighter. But “Vai Cavalo” couldn’t make the grade as a UFC fighter and was released from the organization after suffering losses to Junior Dos Santos and Andrei Arlovski back in 2008. His other losses to Antonio Rodrigo Nogueira and Sergei Kharitonov prior to his stint with the UFC showed Werdum was a good fighter, but certainly not on the level of Fedor.

But alas, Fedor saw his unbeatable luster choked out on Saturday night and the debate regarding the best fighter in the world no longer includes his name. In MMA, every fighter eventually loses and Emelianenko could bounce back in a major way. But how much does Fedor’s loss impact his immediate future and the future of the organization that paraded him around as their most significant signing ever?

The Fedor loss actually hurts Strikeforce more than it does Emelianenko. This marks the second time a big name in the UFC has tasted defeat. Dan Henderson found himself in a similar position when he was soundly beaten by the Strikeforce middleweight champion Jake Shields, who, ironically, may be on his way to the UFC, while Fedor’s been the man UFC President Dana White’s actively pursued for the past couple of years. White can now sit back and laugh because the allure of Fedor is gone and the UFC will be able to name the world’s best heavyweight after UFC 116’s epic matchup between Shane Carwin and Brock Lesnar.

Strikeforce’s heavyweight division also loses some momentum as Fedor will now have to work himself back into the heavyweight picture. A highly anticipated bout with Strikeforce champion Alistair Overeem is now on hold as Fedor looks to redeem himself after the devastating loss. Fans hoping to see Strikeforce compete with the UFC will more than likely turn their attention back to the UFC and be comfortable saying the best heavyweights in the world live in the Octagon. Fighters like Fedor and Dan Henderson were supposed to help bolster Strikeforce’s presence, but the plan backfired.

Fedor’s loss isn’t as bad for him as it seems. He’s still 32-2-1 and has a resume that features names such as Mirko Cro Cop, Antonio Rodrigo Nogueira, Ricardo Arona and Kevin Randleman among others. It actually takes the pressure of remaining unbeaten off of the Russian. Fedor still has the technique and skill to beat any fighter in the world, it’s just a matter of how he rises after being beaten for the first time in his career.

Expect a new, re-focused Emelianenko to emerge and be ready to take back his crown. Strikeforce, on the other hand, better slow down the pandering towards bigger names and focus on some of their younger talent.

fingers tips

An interesting assignment was recently proposed: write about the Interop conference, and more specifically, evaluate whether or not it's focused on the right things. I reluctantly accepted, knowing that Interop is the type of conference I try to avoid. In the world of *nix systems administration, the conference scene is bleak. USENIX LISA and the various LinuxCon conferences are about the only worthwhile, non-commercial conferences where real sysadmins gather to exchange ideas. Everything else is lacking in practical details and is overrun with vendors trying to sell crap.

Interop has over 300 vendors and a huge exhibit hall, so it certainly fits into the "everything else" category. It is also located in Las Vegas. Among those types of conferences, however, Interop does seem to have a better than average variety of lightly technical topics. Three days are dedicated to the conference portion of Interop, where the hot topics of the year are presented.

Focus

Cloud Computing, of course, is a main topic. Digging through the list of talks in cloud track, something strange happened. I started recognizing names. Then, I found numerous sessions that actually sounded interesting. My favorite thus far is, "Private Clouds Are Just Another Name for IT Done Right." Exactly! Then, I read on to discover "The DevOps Revolution," a talk given by Opscode founder Jesse Robbins. Strangely, it's in the Cloud category, likely because there is no Systems track, but nonetheless I am pleasantly surprised. DevOps is one important topic anticipated Interop would ignore, so its presence softened my attitude.